Warp-Faced Double Weave on Inkle Looms by Laverne Waddington

The warp-faced double weave structure that is used by indigenous weavers in the Bolivian highlands to create colorful belts, gives weavers the ability to create sturdy bands with clean, crisp designs on backgrounds of solid color. The structure does not use warp-floats so the bands do not have a pebbled, spotted or speckled appearance or texture. Both faces of the band are perfectly smooth and are structurally identical with colors reversed.

The sturdiness of the fabric makes it an ideal inkle-loom project for creating straps for all manner of things such as musical instruments, cameras, binoculars and bags. However, light and flexible double-weave tapes and bands can also be produced by using fine thread as warp.

Some weavers in the Potosí region of highland Bolivia use only two sheds on their backstrap and ground looms to weave colorful bands in warp-faced double weave which they use as belts. Other indigenous weavers in Bolivia use additional sets of string heddles to create four sheds to weave this same structure. This book covers the basic two-shed method which best suits the inkle loom. The traditional set-up used by indigenous weavers in Bolivia has been adapted to make this beautiful technique accessible to those who use the standard inkle loom.

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It is an advanced pick-up technique for the inkle loom which is best taken on by experienced band-weavers who enjoy the meditative process of using tools or their hands to pick up threads one by one to form patterns. Of the various techniques that the author has studied in South America, it is one of the slower ones to execute and one that requires extra care and attention. However, because it is plain weave and, therefore, does not require the complexities of warp-float length and alignment to be considered, it allows weavers to advance quickly to creating their own original patterns.

A chapter on designing takes readers through the steps for sketching and then charting their original designs. Other chapters show how easy it is to chart motifs that have been woven into textiles. Examples are provided (with an answer key!) so that readers can challenge themselves to try charting woven patterns.

The book provides forty-five charted patterns with curved, angular, solid and outlined figures many of which can be woven with as few as twelve pattern threads in each shed. The motifs include geometric figures, flora, fauna and alphabets, some of which have been adapted from traditional textiles from various regions around the world. Several of the author’s friends and students have contributed their original designs alongside her own for your personal use.

Dozens of step-by-step pictures, accompanied by detailed explanations, take weavers through the steps for warping and setting up the inkle loom, getting started and weaving picking-up patterns. Instructional video clips supplement these topics. Various finishing techniques for double-weave bands are covered including braiding and weft-twining.

94 pages, spiral bound

Average rating:
(based on 13 ratings)

Customer reviews:

Very clear instructions in this book on warp-faced double weave. 
I'm no expert weaver but I've been able to follow Laverne's amazing instructions to weave a band using this technique on only my fourth go on the inkle loom.
The added videos are a useful extra guide.
I'm looking forward to weaving lots of different patterns using this technique.
Very highly recommended.
By  Chantal Jackson  on  Mar 21 2022 12:07 PM
Laverne's books are always at my side when I am designing or weaving on a backstrap.  Her teaching style in person and in her books is fabulous.  I am anxiously waiting for her next book.
By  Kathy King  on  Oct 21 2021 19:20 PM
I just bought this two days ago. I started reading, decided I needed a few things then the next day I was able to warp and start weaving doubleweave! I am ecstatic! I consider myself sort of an intermediate/advanced BEGINNER. Excellent teacher and resource!
By  nannette evans  on  Aug 07 2020 02:36 AM